从家族工坊到世界珠宝帝国，卡地亚何以成就百年品牌传奇？| 美好商业中心直播精彩回顾（下）

近日，经济学人·商论与中信出版集团联合举办访谈直播《从卡地亚看家族传承》。《经济学人·商论》总编辑、法国里昂商学院美好商业中心学术委员吴晨对话卡地亚第六代传人、《卡地亚家族传》作者弗朗西斯卡·卡地亚·布里克尔，探索了百年知名珠宝品牌卡地亚历时四代经久不衰的奥秘，以及在财富全球化的政治、经济、文化浪潮中敏锐把握时代变化、不断更新迭代关键所在。法国里昂商学院作为战略合作伙伴为此次活动提供支持。

Q1.吴晨主编：你认为卡地亚为什么能成功？为什么后来品牌会被出售？

What makes the company a success? And why would it to have been sold?

朗西斯卡·卡地亚：卡地亚家族第三代之所以能够成功，与他们强大的适应能力密不可分。他们会调整策略，在适应市场需求的同时，满足自身对产品和工艺的要求与期待。卡地亚家族成员一直有一个梦想：建立世界上最领先的珠宝公司。为此，他们经历了千辛万苦。

I think part of the reason for the 3rd generation of Cartier success was their adaptability. They will adjust their strategies to meet their own requirements and expectations for products and processes while adapting to market demands. Cartier family member had a dream to build the leading jewellery firm in the world. Even during really difficult times —— the first world wars, three brothers never forgot this dream.

“付出了这么多，为什么下一代会卖掉品牌？”这个问题正是激发我撰写《卡地亚家族传》的原因。在我看来，前三代传人和第四代的区别在于：价值观传承上的中断。三兄弟分布在各大洲，他们子女的成长环境截然不同，很难共享同样的价值观和责任感。此外，财富之中也确实包含着自身毁灭的种子。

“After all that efforts, why on earth did the next generation sell it?” So that’s kind of why I approached The Cartier. The difference between the first three generations and the 4th generation is that the transmission of values breaks down. Because the three brothers are spread out in continents and their sons and daughters have very different upbringings. It’s very hard for them to share the same value. And also I think wealth does contain the seeds of its own destruction.

我的祖父始终坚持以手工的方式精雕细作，他会花上好几个月的时间，用最好的黄金、最好的材料来制作独一无二、举世无双的珍品。但品牌被出售后，接手方更注重利润率，也不想再以漫长而昂贵的方式制造珠宝。祖父对于出售家族企业一事感到非常难过，在很长一段时间内都不想谈论这个问题。

My grandfather was still making hand-made pieces in the same way that his father had done it. The watch he’s making were taking months. Meanwhile, the New York branch had been sold to investors who were more focused on margins. They didn’t want to make things in the long, expensive way anymore. He was very saddened by it and he didn’t want to talk about it for a long time.

Q2.吴晨主编：你对于有志于建立本土奢侈品牌的中国企业家有何建议？

If Chinese entrepreneurs wanted to come up with a Chinese luxury brand, what would be the tips or suggestions that you give to them?

朗西斯卡·卡地亚：卡地亚可能从没想过要建立一个品牌，其初衷始终是成为世界上独一无二、领先的珠宝公司。为了实现它，家族成员们专注于用最好的质量、最好的工匠和最原始的设计，来打造世界上最精品的珠宝。通过打造不容易被取代的手工艺、建立专业化的设计师团队，以及采用大胆的想法和新颖的材料，让有趣的、创新的产品来俘获客户的心。

I think for the Cartier, At the time, they weren’t thinking of build the brand. They just wanted to be the leading jewelry firm in the world, and part of that was being exclusive. How were the three branches going to do that? The way they do that was by focusing on making the best. As I say, the best quality, using the best craftsmen, the most original designs, innovating every season there was something different. You were always one step ahead of your clients. You know what they want before they want themselves.

中国在许多领域奋力赶超，但要想打造本土奢侈品牌不一定要以快速致富为目标，也不需要以打造炫耀奢侈感作为核心。你要做到让你的作品具有代际传承的价值和魅力，让人们忘记它的价格，忘记这是一个品牌，而珍视其真正蕴藏的价值，这才是对卓越工艺真正的理解。

China is playing catch-up in many areas. I think there will be more people wanting to appreciate the art and trying to get a sense of luxury but not necessarily to show off. Many of the brands in China are being used simply as a way to show off “I’m rich”. But when Cartier was a family firm, the focus was just to make beautiful pieces so that people would wear. You make something beautiful even if it’s expensive. People will want it and they will soon forget how much they paid for it.

Q3.吴晨主编：对于想要在不同时代扩张的全球品牌和公司，有没有什么经验可以分享？

So what would be the lessons for the global brand and companies wanting to expand at a different age?

朗西斯卡·卡地亚：对中国企业来说，无论是向国外拓展业务，还是将国外业务引入中国，都可以汲取一些共同的经验和教训。比如，如何建立客户的忠诚度？怎样让客户感到公司的价值？对此，卡地亚选择的是主动出击，顺应全球化浪潮，让世界各地的客户感觉自己与品牌或者公司息息相关，甚至成为它们当中的一部分。

I think the lessons are probably still the same. Fundamentally, what they felt was how do you build that client loyalty? One thing is the product, but the other way is that client feels valued by that company. And how did Cartier do that? As I say, they didn’t just wait for the client to come to them. They went to the client. The globalisation is making clients all over the world feeling included and part of it. Whether that is traveling to them but reaching out to them.

此外，从供应商和生产制作的角度来说，卡地亚也在世界各地设有工厂，我的祖父曾走遍印度和斯里兰卡，亲自到源头地去寻找最好的宝石。你若守株待兔，就只能得到和隔壁人一样的东西。如果你想与众不同，就一定要多走一步，永远别指望机会会主动上门来找你。

Is in terms of the suppliers and the production, Cartier already had workshops in different places. It was buying gems and precious metals from different places. My grandfather travelled around India, Sri Lanka…He would go to the source to get the best gems. He didn’t just wait for things to come to him. Because if he waited for things to come to him, He would get the same what the person next door was getting. If you want to differentiate yourself, I think you need to go that extra mile.

美好商业中心 Good Business Center

2016年6月，法国里昂商学院联合每日经济新闻，共同发起"美好商业 (Good Business)"项目，成立美好商业中心 (Good Business Centre，简称GBC)。

我们一致认同：商业领域的每一个进步都是依靠创造与开拓，而不是竞争与吞并。回归商业本质，才是商业成功的路径。

“美好商业"项目将搭建一个整体平台，通过“"分享与碰撞"、“发声与呼吁"、“呈现与体验"三种角度全方位地探索“美好”的可能性。

Contact Us 联系我们

Jessica Li 李老师

校友与企业关系副总监

Associate Director of Alumni & Corporate Relations

Telephone: +8621-62608176

Email: yli@em-lyon.com