从家族工坊到世界珠宝帝国，卡地亚何以成就百年品牌传奇？｜美好商业中心直播精彩回顾（上）

近日，经济学人·商论与中信出版集团联合举办访谈直播《从卡地亚看家族传承》。《经济学人·商论》总编辑、法国里昂商学院美好商业中心学术委员吴晨对话卡地亚第六代传人、《卡地亚家族传》作者弗朗西斯卡·卡地亚·布里克尔，探索了百年知名珠宝品牌卡地亚历时四代经久不衰的奥秘，以及在财富全球化的政治、经济、文化浪潮中敏锐把握时代变化、不断更新迭代关键所在。法国里昂商学院作为战略合作伙伴为此次活动提供支持。

Q1.阅读《卡地亚家族传》让人联想到了罗斯柴尔德家族。两者皆由家族前辈奠下基业、子女传人在全球市场锐意进取、将品牌发扬光大。你在研究自己的祖辈时，是如何定义家族企业的？哪些故事对你产生了触动？

How do you define the family business when you research your forefathers? What are the interesting things that really get you excited?

朗西斯卡·卡地亚：卡地亚由我的曾曾祖父路易·弗朗索瓦·卡地亚于1947年创立。当年他一贫如洗，从珠宝商学徒开始做起。20多岁时获得一个机会，买下了师傅的工作室。那时，他不得不向家里借钱，因此可以说，这是一个家族企业的开端。早年，一直是他本人维系着企业运营。鉴于当时正值巴黎革命，这实在并非易事。

Cartier was started by my great great great grandfather Louis Francois Cartier all the way back into 1947. He was very poor, and he started off by being a jeweller’s apprentice. In his 20s, he had the opportunity to buy his master’s workshop. And in the stage, in order to buy it, he did have to borrow money off family. So in a way, even at that moment, it was a bit of family business. He kept it going in those early years, which was difficult through the revolution in Paris.

在我心中，曾曾祖父更像是一个创业型企业家。当他的儿子们及其孙辈也加入企业后，卡地亚才变成一个名副其实的家族企业。那时，企业名实际上改成了“卡地亚及其传人”，产生了一定的荣誉感和使命感。我认为从第二和第三代传人起，卡地亚开始成为了真正的家族企业。

In my mind, he is more of an entrepreneur doing the startup. It’s when his sons and his grandsons joined the business that it became more of a family business. At that stage, the name is actually changed to “Cartier et Fils (Cartier and sons)”. There must have been some kind of kudos in the idea of having a business has already gone through more than a generation. I think probably the 2nd and 3rd generation have become really a truly family business.

成功的家族企业有许多相似之处，我认为，其中一定涉及到家庭价值观的传承。子孙尊重父辈，想努力成为他们的骄傲。曾祖父曾经给孙辈们提过一个建议，即“无论你遇到谁，无论他们地位是否尊卑，都要与人为善，因为你永远不知道自己会遇见谁。”可能正是这些人们完全意想不到的因素，帮助品牌建立了回头客而不仅仅是客户群，因为每个顾客都备受尊重。

There are many similarities in successful family businesses, and I do know that must involve the transmission of family values. For example, the founder, Louis Francois Cartier gave one advice to his son Alfred: “Whoever you meet, be very kind. However grand or small they may be, it doesn’t matter.” That’s the kind of thing that maybe you don’t think about. But actually this value meant that they built this not only a client base. They wanted to come back. Because every client was treated with such respect.

同时，他们也建立起一个员工团队，吸引世界上最好的工匠加盟，不少匠人为卡地亚奉献了一辈子。工匠们曾说，为卡地亚工作感觉像是在为一个家庭工作。这句话没错，卡地亚的确是家族企业，但那种家庭的温暖、理解、分享和传承，渗透在了企业的血脉中。

Also, they manged to attract some of the best craftsmen in the world. And those craftsmen, they stayed on with them. They loved working for them and they all said that working with Cartier felt like working for a family. It was a family business but even for them, it felt like an extended family. The warmth, the kind of understanding, the kind of sharing, and the kind of heritage, that’s important.

Q2你认为是什么样的特质，让你的曾祖父取得了后辈的信任？家族企业的运营模式又是怎样的？

So what do you think are the things that your great grandfather have that would have the trust, belief and faith in the sons?

朗西斯卡·卡地亚：曾祖父说，卡地亚永远只会有三个分部，我永远不会让非家庭成员来管理分部。这是因为家庭成员和普通员工们从小到大接受的价值观是不一样的。家庭成员会分享一切、亲密无间、互助互利，形成一个极具凝聚力的利益共同体。

He had three sons and therefore he said, “We are only ever going to have three branches. I’m never going to have a branch run by a non-family member.” Because the values transmuted to the employees are not going to be the same way as if you’ve grown up with. And they were very close. They shared everything, knowing what’s happening before their competitors. They benefited each other’s growth, and they actually extend help.

家族企业的运营模式存在非常重要的两点，它们分别是设计思维和拓展人脉。现在很多人都在谈论设计思维，其本质是对企业的改造。卡地亚从一家珠宝店，逐渐发展成一个品牌，这是一段创新、突破的旅程。

The brothers have demonstrated two very important things, which are design thinking and net work expansion. A lot of people talk of design thinking, and it is essentially a transformation of business. Start off as a jewellery shop. Increasingly, it’s a brand. It’s how to be innovative.

三兄弟不仅在珠宝设计方面极其出色，也非常擅长拓展人脉，他们将分店开到了伦敦、纽约，编织起一张广阔、强大的全球化商业网络。皮埃尔常说：“我们要开拓人脉、要到客户家去拜访他们，让客户觉得自己也是品牌的一部分”。这是个非常聪明的策略，也是一战后当许多其他欧洲珠宝公司还在挣扎时，卡地亚能够在美国真正扎根的原因。

On the other hand, the brothers are very good social networkers. They can build networks in New York, trying to follow where their clients are. Pierre said, “We need to build networks. We need to visit clients in their homes. We need to make them feel like they were part of our brand.” That was very clever and after the WWI, when other French jewellery companies in Europe was struggling, Cartier really had roots in America.

企业品牌其实也是社区和社会的一部分。你需要和客户共同成长，理解他们的品位，在他们的社会圈里被更广泛的群体所接受，这是一个奢侈品品牌旅程中很重要的一部分。它不仅关乎伟大的设计，也需要时间的沉淀。

I think also brand is part of the community and the society. Their clients being regarded not only as a craftsman but as a peer. And also trying to understand their taste and being accepted in their social circles are important. And that’s also part of a journey to really build an important luxury brand. It’s not only about great design. It takes a generation at least to really get involved.

美好商业中心 Good Business Center

2016年6月，法国里昂商学院联合每日经济新闻，共同发起"美好商业 (Good Business)"项目，成立美好商业中心 (Good Business Centre，简称GBC)。

我们一致认同：商业领域的每一个进步都是依靠创造与开拓，而不是竞争与吞并。回归商业本质，才是商业成功的路径。

“美好商业"项目将搭建一个整体平台，通过“"分享与碰撞"、“发声与呼吁"、“呈现与体验"三种角度全方位地探索“美好”的可能性。

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